More on Marjan Hill

Awaking to a beautiful sunny day, we were drawn to venture to Marjan hill again.  However, we decided to take a different path that led to the peak instead of traveling around the base.  We did a much better job preparing for the day by packing a picnic lunch and pulling up a good map onto the iPhone.  

On the eastern slopes of the Marjan, just above the city, is Split’s old Jewish cemetery. The gate was locked, but we learned that if you ask the neighboring coffee shop attendant to open the cemetery they will do so.  The Jewish community in Split has been established since Diocletian's era.  The Jews of Split were mainly merchants, physicians, and tailors.  The Marjan hill Jewish cemetery was first established in 1573 containing over 700 graves.  The last burial took place in 1945 when it was closed and protected as a monument.   We were able to read the headstones starting from the 18th century.   

Bobby is explaining to Amelie about the Hebrew writing on the headstones.

The gate which was opened for us by the cafe attendant.

We continued climbing up the hill, enjoying the views over the city.  Next we approached a small rustic early 13th century church.  The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas (Sv. Nikole), a favourite saint of fishermen.   We could not go inside, but we could look through the small opening in the door to see a completely empty interior.  Amelie enjoyed calling into the church to hear her echo.  Liam enjoyed running around and around the church.  We broke out our delicious picnic lunch next to the church.  If you've been reading our blog then you know that our favorite picnic consists of a baguette, deli meat, cheese, sausage, cherry tomatoes, and fruit.  

  

Bobby is wrangling up Liam while Amelie is entertaining herself and I am taking pictures. ;)

Picnic Spot

With food in our belly, we continued walking two and a half kilometers further along the south rim path to the fifteenth century church of St. Jerome (Sv. Jeronima).  Built into clefts of the cliffs directly above and behind St. Jerome are a group of Renaissance hermitage caves, first used in the 15th century.  We desperately wanted to explore inside the caves, but they were locked.   The southern side of Marjan hill is also a perfect place for rock climbers as there are 70+ routes mapped out.  Bobby and I were rock climbing instructors at a summer camp during college and really miss the sport.  Stopping and talking with the climbers made us renew our goal of getting into shape so that we will be able to climb with Amelie and Liam when they are old enough.  I guess we need to keep away from the fritules if that is going to happen! ;)

Walking up the quiet mountainside in the sunshine is a perfect environment to take a good long nap.
Liam missed seeing the hermitage caves.

The view from the courtyard of St. Jerome.

Amelie and Bobby had to do a little free climbing to see the 2nd cave opening.

As we were walking down the mountain, we overheard English speakers sitting on a bench facing the sea.  We stopped to have a chat with the young Canadian couple who were backpacking through Europe and the World for a year.  It was fun to swap stories and listen to their fast paced schedule and all that they have been able to see.  They couldn't believe our ability to travel with 2 little ones.  The girl commented that she rationalized she had to stop school to travel while she was childless, but that we have totally debunked that theory.

As we walked down the mountain, Bobby and I talked about how insane the events leading up to what we are doing really were.  Chasing after your dreams does not mean you do not have to sacrifice and go out on a limb.  I remember reverting back to my life motto of "just don't think about it" many times to get to the point of leaving the country to travel.  However, through it all, each step made logical sense piece by piece.  Owning an old house was expensive.  So we sold it.  Bobby was defeated and discouraged at the end of many days at his job.  So he turned in his letter of resignation.  Both of our cars were old and requiring maintenance.  So we fixed them up one last time and sold them.  The list could go on with big and little things.  In the end, are we glad we chose risk over redundancy?  Absolutely!  I know that you are probably sick and tired of reading this, but we are really thankful for this opportunity.  Our dream was to travel and we did.  If you feel like you aren't living a story worth telling, I hope our exploits might inspire you to chase after your dreams and write your own amazing narrative for you and your family.

We walked back along the beaches on the coastal path towards home as the sun was setting.  A perfect end to a fantastic walk in the great outdoors with a great perspective of thankfulness in our hearts.

Marjan Hill: Take 2

We have hiked to the top of Marjan Hill, hiked a small portion of the south side; but on November 29th we decided to walk the entire 10K circumference around Marjan Hill.  We love being outside.  It's nice to have a place to retreat away from the city so close to the city...that sounds weird.  Bobby and I used to be wilderness adventurers back in the day, and we think it's time we step up our game when we get back in the States. First stop:  Cumberland Island...who's in?! :)

Sorry, just got sidetracked.  Anyway, the kids loved hiking on the paths in the woods, collecting sticks and rocks and pine cones as they went.  They also loved throwing said treasures into the water when the opportunity arose.   There were times that I had to stay on a wider path with the stroller while Bobby and the kids traveled on a less frequented path.  I am continuing to learn to keep my mouth shut with my "be carefuls" and instructions to Bobby about the kids safety.  He is an amazing dad.  They love spending time with him.  In the end, I know they will remember the feelings of adventure and fun they had with their dad and not the wet shoes or dirty hands they got in the process.  I have not mastered the art of letting go, but I am working on biting my tongue!  Looking back at these pictures, I am reminded how precious this time is that we have with them while they are young.

The three amigos traveling on a small, rocky path near the water's edge.

In case you were wondering, they did go into the tunnel to check it out.

After walking for around two hours, we realized that we were not even half way around the peninsula. Not planning well, we did not bring any food with us.   By happening upon Bene Beach with great playgrounds and a restaurant, we thought we were saved!  However, the chef had errands to run and wouldn't be back for at least an hour.  (Problem with touring during the off season.)  Since we were a couple of hours away from any other food options, we did what any other reasonable parent would do in the same situation.  We fed our children cake for lunch as this was the only food prepared and available in the restaurant.   Amelie and Liam were elated to have this opportunity to have an entire piece of cake to themselves and not have to eat anything prior to receiving this treat.  So, we played, ate, and then continued on our way.

St. Jeronimo's hermitage caves. 

We were greeted by this Jack Russell on top of the fence as we walked by...scared me to death! ;)

After "lunch" Liam feel asleep in this stroller for his nap time.
This is a picture I'm going to add to my compilation of places Liam has slept.

This is one of my favorite pictures of all time.
I am a sucker for sunset and for sweet moments between Bobby and Amelie.
I hit the jackpot with this picture! ;)

No, Liam is not taking the picture...he is still sleeping. ;)

I loved walking this area along the rocky beaches with all of the different pools.
It was much less windy and calm then when we walked this stretch the first time.

Bobby found an anemone that he was showing Amelie and Liam near a fisherman.

Nearing our apartment the sky (and water) turned pink...loved it!

Enjoying Excellent Weather on Marjan Hill

Marjan Hill is a 178 meter tall hill right next to Split's city center.  It's dense Mediterranean pine forest is completely surrounded by the city and the sea, making it a unique sight.  As early as the 13th century this hill was regarded as a municipal forest.  Cutting down trees from this hill was not allowed way back then, nor is it allowed to this day.  It has served as a retreat for picnics and recreational activities for the citizens of Split for hundreds of years.  

On November 6th, with the sun shining and temperatures in the low 70's we decided to start walking up Marjan Hill to see where our adventure would take us.  Our hike began by walking up through the streets of the city.  We then entered the park area where no cars were allowed, but we were still walking along a paved road.  Shortly after we reached a point where trails led us through the woods to the very top.  At the top of the hill we found a really fun playground.  Since Amelie and Liam had hiked up the hill like champs, we spent time playing on the playground.

Bobby cracks me up.   I was waiting for him to throw up or fall on his head while spinning with Amelie. ;)

The views at the top of the hill were amazing!  With the playground being near the openings for incredible views, I found myself just staring soaking up the beauty and the sun's rays.  There were a couple of joggers at the top and I remember thinking that if I ran to the top, then I would definitely take time to reflect and relax with such incredible scenery!

If you look close enough you can see a white dot of a sail boat in the center of the picture.  

Also at the top of Marjan Hill is Split's claim to Europe's smallest zoo.  It has a sordid past with animal rights groups as the cages were quite small.  This was a very sad zoo.  Amelie and Liam did not think twice and enjoyed seeing all of the animals.  There were hundreds of peacocks and roosters walking around freely.  The size and the melancholy of the zoo led to very few pictures taken.  The baboon was very aggressive and would show it's teeth and growl.  Our only separation from the baboon was an old chain link fence and our desire not to have our fingers bitten off, and I was certain that we were going to have poop thrown on us.  He did turn his butt towards us a couple of times, but we escaped clean!  There was an otter that ran right over to the glass and stuck it's paw through a little opening in the cage to us. We were able to see pigs, llamas, a wolf, an owl, vultures, Guinea pigs, ducks, sheep, bears, goats, and geese.  I liked the view too!  The vultures were sitting at the edge of their cage looking over the mountain...kinda sad though...

This huge brown bear did not have much room to roam.  It paced back and forth. 

Amelie and Liam tickled the pigs noses with hay.

A building at the zoo used for food preparation.
The red vines growing on the building really stood out to me.

Anyone want a bathroom break?
How would you feel if the hole had a bunch of bees inside?
*Note:  no one was stung in the process of taking this picture or using the facilities.*

Liam and I sat to wait for Bobby and Amelie as they were checking out a different trail.

Walking back home through the streets of Split.   Living near the tall tower has been amazingly helpful for me as it can be seen from almost everywhere.  As long as I can find the tower, I can find my way home! ;)

After walking all morning, we sat along the Riva for a pizza picnic lunch.

Amelie and Liam had fun feeding their crusts to the pigeons.